Taste of Ukrainian patriotism: 'Enforcer' pub in Kiev serves 'grilled rebels'
The pub has a special counter for those ‘enforcers’ who come for a drink with a ‘slave’.
The walls are draped with camouflage cloth and political cartoons, while the windows are covered with shadow net instead of curtains. The two owners of the new drinking establishment, who reportedly took part in the military operation against the rebellious eastern provinces, believe they have a hit on their hands.
They claim that from now on those who took part in the military operation in the east have a place in the capital to gather together, and they will enjoy a discount. Kiev’s intellectuals and students are also welcome, as prices of dishes don’t exceed 200 hryvnias (a little less than $US10).
— Good Good (@GoodGoodMag) May 14, 2015
Why do they have collars and chains bolted to the walls? No doubt it looks cool, but it begs the question as to why Ukrainian patriots need slaves.
Black humor seems infectious among Ukrainian bar owners, who say their clients like it. The ‘Enforcer’ pub is certainly toeing the party line. The names of the pub’s dishes evoke the latest trends in Ukrainian political life, the civil war in eastern Ukraine and a general loathing towards Russia and Russians.
The pub is ready to serve visitors with such dishes as ‘Grilled Rebel’, ‘Roasted Bullfinch’ (for Ukrainians these birds symbolize Russians), and ‘Polite People’ (a reference to Russian special forces that maintained security in Crimea before the independence referendum).
Reportedly, several Kiev printing houses refused to print the menu because of the names of the dishes.
В Киеве на ул.Тургеневской открылся бар «Каратель».В меню есть «Ополченец гриль»,«Жареные снегири» и «Вежливые люди» pic.twitter.com/jrYu6ylp1h
— Donetskyi (@Donetskyi) May 14, 2015
The establishment’s menu is inscribed with the slogan “Es Lebe Junta!” in red Gothic letters, an undisguised reference to the Nazi Germany slogan “Es Lebe Deutschland!” (Long Live Germany). Meanwhile, the word “junta” is commonly used to describe the authorities in Kiev by those denying legitimacy to the government that came to power as a result of the violent coup in February 2014.
Nevertheless, the ‘Enforcer’ owners are following a trend in modern Ukraine of expressing extreme political views through gastronomy.
On New Year’s Eve one Kiev restaurants prepared a pie in the shape of a baby, calling it ‘Russian infant.’
Clients of the same restaurant could order bitter ‘Veteran’ and dishes like ‘Rebel’s Liver’ and ‘Trade Union House,’ an obvious reference to the massacre in Odessa last year, when Ukrainian radicals set fire to the Trade Union House, killing 48 and injuring over 200 anti-Kiev activists inside.
In Odessa itself a sushi bar has a menu containing such indelicate delicacies as ‘Fried Activists’, ‘Glory to Ukraine’ and ‘Separatists with grilled salmon.’
Yet probably the most sensational names for food dishes were for those sold at a school charity fair in the city of Nikolaev. Items included crumpets called ‘Tanks to Moscow,’ biscuits dubbed ‘Blue and Yellow Kremlin Stars’ (the colors of the Ukrainian national flag), curd pudding presented as ‘Brains of Zhirinovsky’ (the leader of the Liberal Democratic Party of Russia) and a compote sweetly titled ‘Russian Babies’ Blood’.