Tourists seek spiritual healing at former gulag

The Solovetsky Islands – near the Arctic Circle in Russia's northern region of Arkhangelsk – are one of the most important sites for the Orthodox Church. But one of the islands – Bolshoi Solovesky – also housed

In recent years Russians have been flocking to the islands, attracted more by their religious history and rich wildlife than the connection with Stalinism.

Another day and another boatload of pilgrims arrive on Solovetskiy Island, the largest of the Solovki Archipelogo.

The main port of call is the imposing monastery which re-opened in the 1990’s after being closed down during the Soviet era, when the Russian Orthdox faith was banned.

Travelling by bus, on foot and by water they come to see the island's significant religious sites, all of which are recognized by UNESCO for their cultural and historical value.

Pilgrim numbers have steadily risen. 36,000 believers now visit the islands each year. Some come for a day, others for longer, staying in simple rooms and working in various monasteries preparing food for monks or helping restore church buildings.

“I came here to work. For me the Solovky Islands mean holiness, a state of mind which revives and strengthens your soul and helps me tobear my cross,” one of the pilgrims said.

The pilgrims have become a vital part of tourism here, which is still very much in its infancy. Therefore the pilgrims do need someone to organise their visits. That’s where Marina Osipenko comes in. She was one of the first modern-day pilgrims 11 years ago. She stayed, setting up the Pilgrim Service to help others come and realize their dream of visiting the holy islands. She creates schedules for the visitors – a lengthy process that sees her in her office until 11pm most nights.

Religious tourism isn’t the only kind of tourism on the Solovetsky Islands. Many people are coming from across Russia and the Baltic countries to experience the raw natural beauty of this area. Its reputation is spreading and ever increasing numbers are turning their backs on package summer holidays for a chance to get away from modern life and get back to nature, which is just as well as the infrastructure on the island can be a let-down for some tourists. Moreover, accommodation is expensive, because hotels are few and far between.

Pilgrims arrive at Solovetsky island

But Marina Lugovaya is a woman who knows how far the island has come in just a few years, and where it’s heading. She’s another new arrival, who came for just 3 years – six years ago.

“Whether we want it or not the wind of change has come along. Now people prefer driving cars and not going on foot. I came here six years ago and we had only one excursion bus at the time. Now there are six buses, and we still need more. It's necessary to improve roads, build new hotels and provide good services for people,” she said. 

There is a lot here to pass the time. You can kayak through the various waterways, hike through forests, visit museums and religious sites and, with very few cars, the easiest and fastest way to get around is by bike as it helps you to make the most of your time in a blissfully timeless place.

To find out more about the Solovetskiy Island follow the link.