Solovetsky Islands await new dawn

One of the most important holy sites for the Russian Orthodox Church are the Solovetsky Islands in the far North of Russia. Many thousands travel there each year to enjoy its rich history and beauty.

Tranquil, calm, holy – just some of the words that can be used to describe the Solovetsky islands – 160 km, or 100 miles south of the Arctic circle and a 50 minute plane ride from Archangelsk, on mainland Russia.

There are dozens of islands and hundreds of lakes that make up this archipelago, which is accessible only by sea. Boats can navigate this area only six months of the year, but if one thinks it’s remoteness means that these islands have been left largely uninhabited, then one should think again. People have lived here for thousands of years, and evidence of that is all around you.

The landscape was carved by the ice-age, but man has been cultivating it for at least the last 7,000 years – these labyrinths and burial mounds date back to neolithic times.

And man has left his mark in other ways. Particularly since the 15th century.

The Russian Orthodox Church set up a monastery on the islands in the 15th century

It was then that the Russian Orthodox church set up its first monastery here. The fortress-like site dominates the skyline of the main Solovetsky Island – whether you approach the archipelago by air or sea.

The islands are dotted with churches, and religious ruins – for centuries places of pilgrimage and worship.

But the island has also known dark times – this sanctuary became a living hell for almost half-a-million people as part of a concentration camp set up in the 1920’s – the precursor to the GULAG system operated during Soviet times.

More recently the islands have had to face up to a new crisis. A dwindling population. Down from 4,000 islanders 20 years ago to currently just around 900.

The decline is easy to explain – life is tough here. Harsh winters, poor infrastructure, food in short supply and expensive. Inadequate, antiquated housing – few employment opportunities.

The island’s governors are optimistic however – the population slump has reached a plateau.

“For the last 10 years the inflow and outflow of the population of the Solovetsky Islands is in balance: some people leave the Islands, some of them die, but newcomers and newborns average out in the end,” Dmitry Lugovoy, the Head of the Solovetsky administration explains.

Aleksey moved back to the island recently – like many people on the island he works for the island’s biggest employer – the museum service.

His fiancée, Lena has also made the move from the mainland – for love, and for what she sees as a bright future.

“I've come here and got a very interesting job. I like living and working here. On the Solovketsky Islands I have a separate apartment. And in Archangelsk I have to share a flat with my parents. And I don't like this idea,” points out Lena Vassilieva, new island resident.

“So far we like to live in the Solovetsky Islands, then we'll see. Whatever will be, will be. The Solovetsky Islands are a beautiful and quiet place. There is no hustle and bustle here like in the city,” Aleksey Pudov, island resident adds.

Perhaps by the time this young couple have children the island will already look startlingly different. Funding from both the regional and federal governments is being pumped into the islands to improve roads, services and facilities for tourists – the island’s most valuable and fastest-growing money spinner.

In fact this area, the Island administration head says, will be almost unrecognizable for its residents – without, of course, sacrificing the singular tranquillity and beauty for which it's justly famous.

The islands, which have witnessed so much have been shaped by the elements and the people – their religion, their history. This archipelago is about to usher in a new dawn, and with it, a new lease on life.