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The chocolate heart of the Russian capital

Published: 16 September, 2010, 18:05
Edited: 16 September, 2010, 21:29

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TAGS: Russia, Lifestyle, History, Prime Time Russia, Walking distance


Red October – or Krasny Oktyabr in Russian – these two words strike a chord in virtually every Russian’s heart. Those sentiments have nothing to do with the country’s revolutionary past, though. It’s all about chocolate!

If you came to Moscow’s downtown several years ago, every so often you would be breathing in a delicious smell wafting over the Moscow River – a smell coming from the Red October chocolate factory.

Iconic and instantly recognizable, for many years it was Moscow's best loved sweet manufacturer.

Sitting on Bolotny Island not far from the Kremlin, the unmistakable red brick building is one of Moscow’s architectural icons. Bolotny means bog – something the area once was because of frequent floods. The island is also known by its other name, Balchug, which comes from Tatar, meaning dirt or mud.

It is not mud though but mouth-watering sweets that most people think of when they visit the site. Generations of Russians have been raised on chocolates the factory produced.

Despite what its name suggests, the history of Red October began long before the revolution.

It was founded by a German, Theodore Einem, who came to Moscow in 1850 seeking his fortune. He opened a sweet shop which became such a hit that eventually a move to the purpose-built factory on the river was needed. With numerous awards and a contract to supply the Tsar’s court, Einem’s chocolates became Russia’s most successful confectionery brand.

After the Revolution the factory was nationalized, receiving its politically-charged name in 1922, and continued to produce the country’s favorite sweets. Red October survived the turmoil of the 1990s, but three years ago the much-loved manufacturer left the city center, as the authorities pushed for a less industrialized downtown.

The scent of chocolate may be gone, but the former factory has reinvented itself becoming one of Moscow’s trendiest places. It is now home to fancy bars, restaurants, art galleries and photo studios. The visitors can enjoy the island’s vibrant clubbing scene or attend one of the open lectures and workshops on contemporary design and architecture. And for those looking to feed their visual buds, the Lumiere Brothers’ Centre for Photography offers exhibitions focusing on Soviet retro art.

But if someone still wants a taste of Red October, there are two classic Soviet bestsellers that one can get at virtually any food store. The first chocolate treat is called Mishka Kosolapy. It was named after a brown bear and inspired by a painting by the 19th century artist Ivan Shishkin. And the second one is called Alyonka – one of Red October’s most famous chocolate bars produced since 1966. Alyonka is a form of a popular Russian name Alyona or Elena. Back then, the factory even held a competition searching for a child to be the face of the famous bar. In the end the choice fell on the daughter of one of the factory’s own employees.

From classic chocolate to modern art, the former candy land now has a different flavor to it but it is still something worth biting into.

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