Gurus of print in Moscow
Published: 02 April, 2010, 17:02
Edited: 03 April, 2010, 14:09
Image from eleykishimoto.com
They play with patterns, colors and shapes like grandmasters play chess. Intellectual fashion rebels “Eley Kishimoto” have shown off their unconventional creations during Russian Fashion Week.
Photo report on “Eley Kishimoto” show in RT's Gallery
The designers behind the brand are Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto; a creative duo that has been a success for almost two decades.
Their creations speak for themselves and can first and foremost be recognized by their signature print patterns. Apart from womenswear, jewelry and footwear, the designers have also tried their hand at creating furniture, wallpaper, and glassware, as well as computer technology designs.
Balancing between modesty and grotesque, elegance and eccentricity, simplicity and drama, the forward-thinking designers have displayed their looks on the catwalks of the world, working with such virtuosos as Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen, Alber Elbaz and Jil Sander, to name a few.
Eley Kishimoto’s fans say their designs help enhance individuality and not only look avant-garde but are also flattering.
![]() Image from eleykishimoto.com |
“It’s about how you see a square, a strip, or a spot and how they then change through handwriting, through different drafting, so that something can then look a little bit more ethnic or futuristic… It’s not really a proper ‘story’ this season. It’s more a juxtaposition of pattern.”
Their latest collection is akin to a kaleidoscope of impressions. Has it been inspired by cinema or any film in particular?
“Not with direct relationship to the collection”, Mark explains. “We watch lots of films and take in that information and maybe subconsciously put it into the collection, but there’s no direct relation between a film or a story or music. It’s a pattern experience; that’s why it’s called ‘Pattern Lab’.”
They invest their time and energy spending six months developing each collection. Is there constant pressure to meet or exceed their fans’ expectations?
“We hope that our fans or our customers follow us, adopting the way we want women look, and we stay on the journey together. There’s a creative pressure, a time pressure and the pressure to make the collection very successful, of course. It’s important for us.”
Eley says that the global crisis has affected people a lot. Given that fashion is a luxury, people’s budgets have been limited. Many have been choosing things more shrewdly, preferring those that will last a little bit longer.
“We’re quite lucky because we’re craft people, and because we specialize in print, there’s a language that we have and share with people who love us.”
How do you know you’ve created the right thing?
“As long as I’m happy with it!”
Has such a trailblazing designer as Mark Eley ever been jealous of another fellow’s work?
“Jealousy is not the proper word, we’re confident with our looks. I’m happy to see other people’s creations and indulge into someone else’s creativity.”
Valeria Paikova, RT
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